Hanfu is the Chinese traditional national costume. It covers a wide range of time. Different dynasties have different styles of Hanfu. This article will sort out the most classic Hanfu styles of each dynasty so that you can quickly understand the classic Hanfu styles of each dynasty.
Qin and Han Dynasties
The Qin and Han Dynasties are the two unified dynasties in Chinese history, the first imperial era in Chinese history. After the unification of China in the Qin Dynasty, the dress system was established, and the standard etiquette of Han clothing was more obvious.
The clothes of the Qin and Han Dynasties mainly inherited the influence of the Zhou Dynasty, and still took the robe as the typical clothing style, which was mainly divided into straight trains and curved trains. In daily life, the difference between men and women is not significant. Both men and women wear wide sleeves with large lapels. The difference is that men tie leather belts around their waists, while women tie them only with ribbons.
Wei and Jin Dynasties
During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, influenced by social politics, economy, and culture, the style of Hanfu was free and easy, simple and elegant, and light and elegant.
The tops are usually loose, with wide cuffs and simple patterns, mainly based on color matching. The lower body is more complicated, mainly in a skirt, but on the whole, it is still natural and elegant.
In the Tang Dynasty, because of the social atmosphere of “national unity and economic prosperity” and the strong inclusiveness to beauty, the style of Hanfu at that time could be said to be blooming.
Tang made Hanfu has inherited many characteristics of previous dynasties’ costumes, such as the meticulous costumes of the Zhou Dynasty, the elegant costumes of the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and the lively costumes of the Han Dynasty.
On this basis, it has built a beautiful and moving prosperous age of the Tang Dynasty with its unique grace and magnificence and various gorgeous makeup, which makes Tang-made Hanfu still particularly popular.
Tang – Qixiong Ruqun (齐胸襦裙)
The Qixiong Ruqun was very popular in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. The upper part was a single-layer shirt, and the lower part was usually matched with a pleated skirt, a broken skirt, a colored skirt, and so on. No matter which one, it can match with a different flavor.
Tang – Qiyao Ruqun (齐腰襦裙)
Qiyao Ruqun can be divided into Jiaoling Qiyao Ruqun (交领齐腰襦裙) and Zhiling Qiyao Ruqun (直领齐腰襦裙). According to the wearer, it can be divided into women’s Qiyao Ruqun and men’s Qiyao Ruqun.
Tang – Tanling Ruqun (坦领襦裙)
As the Hu culture was widely popular among all classes in the Tang Dynasty, it became a fashion for women in the Tang Dynasty to wear small-sleeved clothes.
The features of the Tanling Ruqun (坦领襦裙) are inherited from the Sui Dynasty. It is generally tight, with a tan collar and narrow sleeves, but gradually increases the opening of the jacket, reflecting the women’s chest curve.
Tang – Yuanling Robe (圆领袍)
Because in ancient times, the most common form of Hanfu worn by emperors and officials was the round neck robe(Yuanling Robe). Its wearing method was very wonderful. It could be worn in the round neck style, or the collar could be opened in the style of Hu Fu.
The work of the round neck robe also integrates the characteristics of various ethnic groups, with a full sense of classicism. A pair of trousers can be worn inside the round neck robe as an inner layer, and a leather belt should be added in the middle as a closing treatment. The overall look is natural and unrestrained.
Moreover, it is not only the shape that men can wear but also the one that women often wear. Careful friends can also see that many murals have palace maids wearing round collared robes.
In the Tang Dynasty, the atmosphere was open and the clothing absorbed many characteristics of Hu Fu. However, in the Song Dynasty, people turned to advocate frugality and elegance. Therefore, the clothing style in this period was more simple and implicit.
Song Bei Zi, song Ku, and song Baidie skirt (百迭裙) are the three main daily costumes in Song Dynasty.
Song – Beizi/Song Ku (褙子/宋裤)
Song – Beizi/Baidie Skirt (褙子/百迭裙)
Song – Yuanling Robe ( 圆领袍)
Men in the Song Dynasty also wore round-neck robes. What is the difference between round-neck robes in the Song Dynasty and those in the Tang Dynasty?
The round collar in Song Dynasty looks more scholarly. It not only has a collar button design but also has a flattering collar and a larger neckline, which can reveal the clothes inside.
Compared with the closing cuffs in the Tang Dynasty, the cuffs in the Song Dynasty will become wider and more casual.
Zhu Yuanzhang, the emperor Taizu of the Ming Dynasty, reformulated the dress system according to the tradition of the Han nationality. The Hanfu of this period not only had the simple style of the Song Dynasty but also inherited the grace of the Tang Dynasty. It was very beautiful.
From modern times to modern times, the national costumes of the Korean, Ryukyu, and Jing ethnic groups (Korean, Ryukyu, and Yue costumes) were also deeply influenced by the costumes of the Ming Dynasty.
Ming – Aoqun (袄裙)
Yuanling Aoqun has long styles and short styles. The most common is a short style. This way of wearing is consistent with the jacket and skirt. The upper jacket is treated with Pipa sleeves, and the lower is a horse face skirt. Generally, the style of the round neck is embroidered with a round embroidery pattern on the chest, which complements each other.
Ming – Yuanling Robe (圆领袍)
Just now we have seen the round-necked robes of the Tang and Song dynasties. Let’s take a look at the round-necked robes of the Ming Dynasty?
In fact, there is little resemblance between the Ming Dynasty’s round collar robe and the Tang Dynasty’s, except for the round collar. Not only the cuffs are made wider, but also the overall style tends to be elegant and natural. Generally, a palace sash is tied at the waist. In order to distinguish it from the previous dynasties, it also has its own name, called Panlingpao (盘领袍).
Ming – Zhishen (直身)
Zhishen is a kind of official dress in the Ming Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, Zhishen has a high level, and the royal guard’s hall takes Zhishen as a lucky dress.
The Zhishen is slightly more formal than the Taoist robe for occasions. It is very similar to the drag and scatter, and has double pendulums-like ears on both sides.
Ming – Yesa (曳撒)
As one of the men’s clothes in the Ming Dynasty, it is the daily clothes worn by the emperor, his son and all civil and military officials.
The front piece of Yesa (曳撒) is cut separately and the back piece is a whole piece. Horse face pleats are made below the waist. There are small pleats above the large pleats and two pieces of horse ears on the left and right respectively.
Ming – Flying Fish Suit (飞鱼服)
Flying fish suit is a kind of clothing given by the Ming Dynasty. It is called “Flying fish suit” because of the flying fish patterns on it.
The flying fish suit can be a Yesa (曳撒), a Tieli (贴里), a Zhishen(直身), etc. as long as there is a flying fish pattern, it is called a flying fish suit. So the flying fish suit is not a form, but a gift of the Ming Dynasty.
Ming – Taoist Robe (道袍)
There are many Hanfu styles that can be matched with Taoist robes, such as a cloak or Bijia. Many friends heard the word “Taoist Robe”. They didn’t know that they thought it was the clothes worn by Taoist priests. In fact, it was not so. It was just a special call of this kind of Hanfu.
From the simplicity and elegance of the Wei and Jin Dynasties to the elegance and splendor of the Tang Dynasty, and from the elegance of the Song Dynasty to the beauty of the Ming Dynasty, China has a long history. Different Hanfu costumes derived from this long history, which dynasty of Hanfu do you like best?