Beizi is a kind of Hanfu, which began in Sui Dynasty and was popular in song and Ming Dynasties. Most of Beizi are straight collar, the sides are not sewn from the armpits. They are usually worn over other clothes.
Although the Song Dynasty established a unified dynasty, it was different from the Tang Dynasty in terms of comprehensive national strength and military strength. In the face of the huge military pressure, the government of the Song Dynasty was unable to resist. Instead, they just gave in and gave up their territory in exchange for peace. At the same time, they took the feudal thought to control the people and imprison people’s thought.
This historical background and social trend of thought directly affected people’s attitude towards life and aesthetic taste. The overall artistic style of Song Dynasty emphasized the restraint of individual personality and desire, with a strong color of abstinence. The fashion of paying attention to moral cultivation greatly affected the dress. Therefore, the dress of Song Dynasty returned to the traditional and simple style, revealing the beauty of modesty and elegance.
In Song Dynasty, Beizi’s collars were divided into three types, namely, straight collar, oblique collar and cross lapel collar.The slant collar and the pan collar are only worn by men when they are inside the public clothes. Most of the women wear straight collars and lapels. The length of the clothes is different. The front is not covered with loop buttons. The sleeves can be wide or narrow.
In the Ming Dynasty, Beizi had two kinds of wide sleeve Beizi and narrow sleeve Beizi. The wide sleeve Beizi was only decorated with lace on the lapel, and the collar went all the way to the hem; while the narrow sleeve Beizi had lace decoration at the cuff and collar, and the collar lace only reached the chest.
According to the female Beizi unearthed from the tombs of the Song Dynasty, the main materials of Beizi are Luo, crepe and damask, among which Beizi made by Luo is the most.
Song dynasty women’s Beizi color collocation makes full use of warm and cold colors to balance the inside and outside, up and down.The Song Dynasty female Beizi often shows the sense of hierarchy by the color of the edge of the lapel or the hanging belt, which makes the characters dress more colorful.
The patterns of Beizi in the Song Dynasty are mainly expressed by the fringes on the lapels, cuffs and side seams of the two armpits, so as to make the whole Tuzi plain and elegant, so as to highlight the exquisite and gorgeous edge ornaments.
In addition, there are bird and beast patterns, geometric patterns, auspicious patterns, and so on.
The aesthetic pursuit of the Song Dynasty is conservative and rational, the artistic pursuit is implicit and ethereal, natural, and insipid, which is reflected in the fashion of returning to tradition and simplicity.
Beizi is popular because of its style of fit, elegant, slender, easy to use and easy to move. Its shape makes women look more delicate, which is in line with the aesthetic taste of the Song Dynasty with the beauty of thin, thin and weak.